Anchorage: Anchorage
is by far Alaska’s largest city. Our hotel is
in the downtown area. Here the state has its office
building and courthouse. The city has its museum, convention
center, and performing arts center. A number of major
companies have their office buildings here. So the downtown
is a vibrant area. Because most of the major hotels
are also here, the downtown is also oriented toward
the visitor.
The Anchorage Museum of History and Art has a wonderful
Alaska history gallery upstairs, and a collection of
dramatic paintings of Alaska downstairs. The Alaska
Public Lands Information Center is a couple of blocks
from our hotel. It’s a collaboration of federal
and state land and wildlife control agencies. Inside
you’ll find information on all of the national
parks and forests in Alaska as well as all of the state
parks. There are maps, mounted wildlife displays, and
the Alaska Natural History Association has one of its
excellent bookstores here.
In addition, also a few blocks from our hotel, is a
professional photography store, and access to the portion
of Anchorage’s bike trails that wind along its
muddy shoreline and Westchester Lagoon. There’s
great birding to be found along its course. You can
hike for miles on this trail system.
The delights of downtown Anchorage can be enjoyed if
you arrive early on the first day, leave late on the
last day, and/or for a few hours as we take a midday
break here when traveling between the Kenai
Penninsula and Denali National Park.
Homer: This artsy
community is located at the mouth of Kachemak Bay on
the western shore of the Kenai Peninsula. Jutting south
several miles into the bay is the Homer Spit. Our hotel
is at the end of the spit looking across the bay at
fantastic mountain peaks and glaciers. Stay up late
and marvel at the fading twilight; the show lasts an
hour or two this close to solstice.
The mountainous south shore of the bay is rugged with
inlets, tide pools and islands. The 18-foot tides create
a complex combination of currents that create upwellings
of nutrients that attract marine fowl and whales. It’s
a dramatic landscape that we‘ll kayak through.
We’ll also fly, from Homer, south and west to
the far side of Cook Inlet. While in the air, weather
permitting, we'll be able to view awe-inspiring landcapes
of rugged mountains and glaciers. The views take the
breath of even those who have seen them on a regular
basis. Our plane lands on the beach along the coastal
boundary of Katmai National Park and Preserve. Here
our guides take us to where Alaska brown bear forage
for food, seek mates, and take care of their young.
This will be a full day of viewing bears engaged in
a wide variety of activities.
Homer is also home to the Islands and Ocean Center,
which is the visitor information center for the Alaska
Maritime National Wildlife Refuge. In addition, in Homer,
there are a number of small, independent art galleries
and shops to enjoy. Beach combing and bird watching
are, of course, popular activities in Homer as well.
For more about the local natural history, there's the
Pratt Museum.
Seward: On the
east side of the Kenai Peninsula is the port and fishing
town of Seward. This is the main access point for Kenai
Fjords National Park and several islands that are part
of the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge. Our
full day here will be spent on one of the smaller, more
intimate wildlife viewing vessels. Its itinerary is
set by the captain according to the interests of the
passengers and where he/she thinks a wide variety of
marine wildlife will be found.
While in Seward, there will also be time to visit
the Alaska Sealife Center, which is Alaska’s small,
but state of the art aquarium and research facility.
It’s also possible to journey a few miles farther
up the road our hotel is on, to visit Exit Glacier.
This valley glacier ends about a mile from a convenient
parking lot. A short hike will take you to, literally,
a stone’s throw from the terminus of this icy
relic of the last ice age. Its melt waters flow as a
braided river just across the road from our hotel.
Talkeetna:
Talkeetna is the modern access point for Mt. McKinley.
A number of flight services that specialize in flying
climbers to the lower slopes of the great mountain are
based here. These flight services are also available
to take flightseers around the mountain and/or land
on one of its glaciers. We’ll use Talkeetna as
a stop-over on our way to Denali National Park. Our
lodge sits on a rise above the town, and has, barring
clouds, an unobstructed view of the south side of Mt.
McKinley from base to summit.
Talkeetna is said to be the town that the TV show
Northern Exposure was based on. Its rustic charm makes
apparent the comparison. President Harding stopped here
on his way south after driving the golden spike marking
the completion of the Alaska Railroad. Later, on his
way back to Washington, he died in San Francisco. Some
Talkeetna locals like to believe he was poisoned in
a popular watering hole here.
In addition to pleasant strolls about the town or
along the Talkeetna and Susitna Rivers, there’s
a room-sized 3-D model of Mount McKinley that was made
by computer-guided laser. You can walk around the model
to view the mountain's topography. Articles about climbers
and climbing The Great One adorn the walls around the
model.
Denali National Park:
We will spend one night in the populated area along
the park’s eastern boundary. Our accommodations
will be on the banks of the Nenana River which forms
the eastern boundary of the park. There will be time
to enjoy the park’s visitor center, and for optional
activities such as flightseeing, rafting on the Nenana,
horseback riding, or spending more time in the park
by riding in on the park shuttle bus system. We will
enjoy an evening dinner theater while here.
Camp Denali: Camp
Denali was created in 1951, by two ladies who wanted
the facilities to function not just as accommodations
with a view of Mount McKinley, but more as a base for
guests to operate from as they explored and learned
about the taiga and tundra realms at their doorsteps.
When first established, Camp Denali was just beyond
the park's north boundary. At that time the park still
had its original name, Mt. McKinley National Park. With
an expansion in 1981 that more than doubled the park's
size, Camp Denali found itself in the heart of the new
park.
To get to Camp Denali, we will travel almost the full
length of the park’s sole road. For most of its
length, the park road is gravel and dirt. Because of
the nature of the road and the wildlife encountered
along it, there are driving restrictions. As a result,
we will ride on a Camp Denali bus with one of their
naturalists certified to drive this most memorable thoroughfare.
The trip through what has been called the Serengeti
of the North will last about 6 hours and include several
rest stops and, more importantly, stops for wildlife
sightings. One of the rest stops features a picnic style
dinner set up for us by the drivers.
The lodge is at the far end of the road, almost 90
miles from the park entrance. The view to the south,
from the lodge, is of Wonder Lake just below, and Mt.
McKinley rising beyond, its summit just 29 air miles
away.
Camp Denali’s current owners, the Cole family,
have been continuing the tradition of operating a world
class lodge and providing excellent naturalist guides
since the baton was passed to them over 30 years ago.
Their business is a labor of love, which is apparent
in the way the lodge is maintained, and every aspect
of the experiences they make possible for their guests.
There are natural history hikes from the lodge and from
venues along the park's road. In addition, there are
evening presentations by the staff and invited guest
naturalists. The guest naturalists lead hikes and present
evening programs during their stay at the lodge. Subjects
for these presentations range beyond the expected flora
and fauna material, to geology, tundra ecology and the
dramatic effects that a warming climate is having on
the tundra and arctic regions in general.
While the cabins are cozy and well-appointed, the
camp is in too remote a location for each cabin to have
indoor plumbing. Each cabin does have its own outhouse
and the shower building is large with plenty of hot
water. Dining is in the new dining facility, and the
food has a well-deserved reputation for its excellence.
It's often in the dining room that you will find out
just how international the clientele is and how many
guests are return visitors as the lodge has a devoted
alumni. Our stay at Camp Denali is a special experience
that will give you substantial bragging rights among
your better-informed acquaintances. The itinerary gives
us two full days and 3 nights at the lodge. The nights
are important because Mt. McKinley is often seen during
the twilight and morning hours. All the cabins have
views of the mountain from their front porches.